Ιf you haven’t visited Apokoronas region and its villages, you haven’t experienced traditional Crete!
Dear friend
We love Crete! We love it for the hospitable but proud people, the mountain goats gazing at the other-wordly views of the sea, the ancient history of the mysterious Minoans, still seen in the ruins scattered around the island… its inexhaustible hidden trails and natural wonders.
You’ll immediately know you’ve looked into the soul of Crete when you visit the region of Apokoronas, one of the most fertile regions of Crete! Apokoronas extends from the foothills of the White Mountains to the north coast of Chania district and is known for its stunning natural landscapes, breathtaking views of the mountains, valleys, and the Aegean Sea. The region is abundant with well-tended vineyards, centuries-old olive and orange groves, surrounding traditional Cretan villages. Apokoronas boasts numerous walking trails, from the mountain to the sea, unknown to most hikers who tend to only follow the E4 and miss out on the true essence of mountainous Crete.
Its picturesque traditional villages, such as Kalyves, Almyrida, Vamos, Vryses, Armenoi… all radiate with authenticity, a sense of community and a slower pace of life. Each season still determines the flow of daily life in Cretan villages… If you walk at the right time of year, you’ll witness olive groves and vineyards in bloom or full of the collective energy of harvest. You can even visit an olive press still powered by a watermill. And how about visiting a distillery that creates the local firewater (raki) that fuels the endless banter of the locals? It’s this love of life we so much want to share with you.
We have been enchanted by this part of Crete and that’s why we have have added Apokoronas in our 10-day itinerary around West Crete…
Here are our favourite 3 Apokoronas walks not to be missed!!!!
WALK 1: Village hop through a natural paradise hidden in the heart of Cretan mainland!
Starting from Vamos village, you will walk through charming cobbled streets lined with neoclassical buildings and traditional village houses. You will wander through lush vineyards and olive groves before reaching the picturesque village of Douliana. Your journey continues along a shady trail leading to the cave church of Ag. Ioannis and to the village of Gavalochori, where the Museum of Folk Art offers a glimpse into the region’s rich heritage and traditions. Byzantine-era wells guide you onward to Xirosterni, a village celebrated for its musical traditions and poetic verses. Your next destination is the beautifully preserved village of Litsarda, following trails that provide a habitat for rare plant and birdlife. Your circular walk ends back in Vamos village. Time for a rewarding meal at the local tavern.
Walking distance: 12km, 4 hours. Actual walking time: 5-6 hours. The path is considered easy.Wikiloc
WALK 2: From the mountain to the sea through Ancient Aptera!
Your walk begins at Itzedin Fortress, a 19th-century Ottoman fort with sweeping views of Souda Bay. From here, you’ll follow the path along the ancient walls of Aptera, an archaeological site filled with ruins from the Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods, surrounded by wildflowers and olive trees. Founded in the 7th century BC, Aptera was one of the largest city states in Crete and was continuously inhabited until an earthquake destroyed it in the 7th century AD. The trail leads you to the peaceful village of Stilos, known for its fresh springs and traditional Cretan charm.
From Stilos, you’ll follow the Kiliaris river, winding through lush greenery and shady plane trees, with the sounds of birds and flowing water adding to the tranquility. Your journey ends at Chrisi Akti Beach, where soft golden sand and crystal-clear waters provide the perfect place to relax by the sea.
The British traveler, poet and painter Edward Lear, after capturing in his famous sketches the landscape with the view from the walls of Aptera, wrote on May 4, 1864 in his “Cretan Diary”: “At every point of the route of this ancient place there is a beautiful view, but the immense hollow of the Apokoronas plain, outlined by the snow-capped mountain range and emerging between rocks of a soft gray or almost white, is truly enchanting.”
Walking distance: 12km, 4 hours. Actual walking time: 5-6 hours with stops for observations and rest. The path is considered easy.
WALK 3: Kares to Gournes plateau and peak of Varsamos
Your hike begins from the charming settlement of Kares, following an old rocky trail that ascends to the Gournes plateau, perched at 1100 meters. Along the way, you’ll pass by impressive old cypress trees, shaped by the strong winds. The trail offers stunning views of the Apokoronas villages, the coastline, and the sparkling Aegean Sea, offering perfect spots to pause and take it all in. After resting at the plateau of Gournes, you can continue to ascend to Varsamos peak or begin your return journey, past small farms, vineyards, and traditional rural landscapes. The hike takes approximately 5-6 hours, depending on your pace, with plenty of shady spots to rest and soak in the serene views of the nearby mountains and the vast blue expanse of the sea.
Walking distance: 12km (15km if you ascend Varsamos), 4 hours. Actual walking time: 5-6 hours with stops for observations and rest. The path is considered moderate. Wikiloc
A walker’s heaven
Crete has always been a hikers’ destination. Being the largest and most mountainous island in Greece means that you can still find the quiet corners (such as Apokoronas) away from the city noise and big tourist groups, as long as you do the right research or you have a local, like-minded guide.
Whether you prefer shorter walks in order to see the diverse landscapes and experience the aromas of the Cretan flora, or you are more of a “mountain goat” type and prefer to hike until you have taken in all the images that you can, the options are endless.
The trail network of Crete is there for you to discover walking along the coast, to the rustic villages, and through the gorges that have provided a haven for the wild but harmless fauna, for people in times of battle, and for travellers who want to avoid the crowds and enjoy the peacefulness of Cretan nature.
You will never get bored in Crete: there is always some new landscape or geological feature, some rare eco-system, or region of outstanding natural beauty and diverse habitat. Not to mention its rich history, unique character & culture of its people, numerous traditional villages, incredible coastline, fascinating colours of the Libyan sea… and the food!
If you have yet to walk through this wonderland, check our 10-day guided West Crete walking holiday…
If you prefer to explore on your own, check our recommended self-guided walking holiday itinerary…
If you only have a few days available check our West Crete short-stay walking holiday…
Please contact us for further information and our group and other offers.
“Thanks to beautiful Crete, dazzling blue and white, splashing of vibrant flora. But always a generous people, even in the face of tourist rudeness. We are so blessed by Loutro and its people! And without you – your creative problem solving, your commitment to choosing special activities, your willingness to spend all your time with us, your positive attitude and energy, our experience would have be so different. Many efharistos!” Ward and Gale, USA
“There is a kind of flame in Crete – let us call it “soul” – something more powerful than either life or death. There is pride, obstinacy, valor, and together with these something else inexpressible and imponderable, something which makes you rejoice that you are human being, and at the same time tremble.”
N. Kazantzakis, Cretan writer (Report to Greco)
If you wish to discuss the above or any other matter please don’t hesitate to contact us either at info@nofootprint.gr or +30 6976761492.
We look forward to hearing from you soon.
Best regards
Melita